How to Backpack Shi Shi Beach in Olympic National Park

Nestled on the remote northwestern coastline of the Olympic Peninsula, Shi Shi Beach offers a unique adventure for backpackers looking to camp on the beach. Famous for its rugged beauty, towering sea stacks, and captivating tide pools, Shi Shi Beach provides an unparalleled experience in Olympic National Park. If you’re just getting into backpacking or looking for an easy route then you should definitely consider this hike. This guide will take you through everything you need to know to ensure you have an awesome experience at Shi Shi Beach and more importantly how to plan this hike out.

How to Backpack Shi Shi Beach: What permits are needed?

Shi Shi Beach was on my list for awhile but when it came to planning the trip out, there was a lot of confusing and conflicting information on how to exactly go about it, particularly on what permits you actually needed! I am going to save you lots of time, so here’s all the important info you need:

Step 1: Obtain Your Backcountry Wilderness Permits for Shi Shi Beach

The first thing you’ll need is a backcountry wilderness permit for Olympic National Park, which can be obtained from recreation.gov by clicking the “Check Availability” button. Select “North Coast” as your starting destination and then choose “Shi Shi Beach”. Choose the date you want to start your trip and the number of people. You can then select your end date. For example, a reservation for camping on Saturday night for 3 people would cost $8/night with a one-time $6 fee, bringing the total to $30.

Step 2: Obtain a Makah Recreation Pass

Access to Shi Shi Beach requires driving through the Makah Tribe Reservation, for which you need a special recreation pass. Even if you’re just day hiking, you will still need to purchase this pass for $20. The pass is valid for the entire calendar year and can be bought at multiple locations. I purchased mine at the Makah Mini-Mart.

Step 3: Pay for Overnight Parking at a Private Lot with Cash

The trailhead for Shi Shi Beach does not allow overnight parking to avoid crowding out day hikers. You will need to pay for parking at a private lot owned by the Makah Tribe, costing $10/day. If you’re staying overnight, the total will be $20. Bring cash! The lot is located about 0.5 miles from the main trailhead and is secure, so you’ll feel safe leaving your car there. Here is the google maps location of the private lot for Shi Shi Beach.

So, the key takeaway here is you’ll need to obtain your Olympic Wilderness backcountry permit, a Makah Recreation Pass, and pay for private trailhead parking. For an individual looking to do this trail for one night, you’re going to spend $54. For a group of 3, the cost will be $70 for a one-night trip.

What is the best time to backpack Shi Shi Beach?

The best time to backpack Shi Shi Beach is during the late spring to early fall months, typically from May to September. During this period, you can expect milder weather and more stable conditions, which will make your experience much more enjoyable.

The Hike To Shi Shi Beach

Of the many hikes I’ve done, the Shi Shi Beach trail is definitely one of the easier backpacking routes. It’s under 10 miles long with about 600 feet of elevation gain, so it’s fairly easy. The trail does have some inconvenient obstacles, which I’ll get into, but overall, you should be able to get to camp fairly quickly.

The trail kicks off at the private lot and stretches along the road for 0.5 miles until it reaches the main trailhead. If you’re a day hiker, you can skip this part, but overnight backpackers need to start here.

From the main trailhead, the trail carves through the forest for about 2.3 miles before you emerge onto the beach. From there, you’ll be walking on sand all the way to your campsite.

As you trek through the woods, you’ll cross several raised wooden walkways and bridges that help navigate the wetland terrain. These spots are not only functional but pretty cool for photos too. The forest is dense in some areas, filled with hemlock thickets and towering Douglas firs and Cedars.

Mud! Be ready for a lot of it! About 1.5 miles in, you’re almost guaranteed to hit a very muddy stretch. This section can be tough early in the season, though it’s less of a problem later on. This muddy part lasts for almost a full mile, but if you’re careful and take your time hopping from rocks to logs, you can mostly avoid getting too dirty.

The elevation gain is so gradual you’ll barely notice it as you slowly climb and then descend just as gently. The sound of the ocean starts off as a distant whisper and grows louder and louder. Along the way, there are some amazing side views where you can get elevated views of the ocean. The giant sea stacks jut out from the ocean, providing a great vantage point to see the distant Point of Arches—where you’ll be hiking to if you choose to camp at the far end of Shi Shi Beach.

Eventually, you make your way down to the ocean, crossing into Olympic National Park. This is the steepest section of the trail, dropping down close to 200 feet via multiple switchbacks. Once you’re down on the beach, the rest of the hike is along the shore. You don’t need to worry about the tide; the beach is wide and even at high tide, there’s plenty of room to walk to your camping destination.

Feel free to set up camp anywhere along the 2.3-mile stretch from the beach access to the Point of Arches. I suggest heading down the beach towards Petroleum and Willoughby Creek and looking for a campsite near those creeks.

Campsites at Shi Shi Beach

There are three main areas to camp at Shi Shi Beach: the forest area near where the trail first hits the beach, Petroleum Creek, and Willoughby Creek. I’d suggest skipping the forested campsites where you initially descend to the beach. They lack a water source and tend to get quite busy from foot traffic.

Petroleum and Willoughby Creek are top picks for camping since they offer fresh water sources and have outhouse facilities. You’ll find several campsites nestled where the beach meets the forest—ideal if you prefer to avoid camping directly on the sand and want some shelter from the sun and wind. These spots are in high demand, though, so they might be taken early. I ended up pitching my tent on the beach, which turned out great. I found a perfect spot tucked between some driftwood.

Water Sources at Shi Shi Beach

At Shi Shi Beach, you’ll find two main freshwater sources: Petroleum Creek and Willoughby Creek. These creeks are fed by coastal swamps rich in tannins, which can color the water much like steeped tea. It’s crucial to treat this water properly through filtration or boiling to ensure safety. These streams often harbor parasites like cryptosporidium and giardia, making water treatment essential. Note that using iodine is not an effective method for treating this water, so you should avoid it. Along the trail, you might also come across a few smaller creeks flowing from the hillside to the beach, but these are less reliable, especially later in the summer.

Can you build campfires on Shi Shi Beach?

Yes, you can build campfires on Shi Shi Beach, which is a unique advantage compared to many other areas in the Olympics.

• Location: Ensure that fires are made only on the beach and below the high tide line.
• Fuel: Use only driftwood for your fires. Finding dry driftwood can be challenging in late summer, so you might consider bringing your own wood.
• Size: Keep fires to a reasonable size to ensure they are manageable and safe.
• Extinguishing: Before leaving, make sure your fire is completely extinguished and that the ashes are scattered.
• Regulations: Always check for fire bans before starting a fire, as bans are common during the later summer months.

Are Dogs Allowed at Shi Shi Beach?

No, dogs are not allowed inside the National Park so you won’t be able to bring your pup to Shi Shi Beach.

Food Storage at Shi Shi Beach

The National Park Service mandates the use of bear canisters to deter bears from accessing your food. Interestingly, raccoons pose a more frequent problem here, so it’s crucial to secure a bear canister before you set out. Bear canisters are also invaluable for keeping sand out of your food, enhancing your overall camping experience.

Shi Shi Beach Tide Pools

One of the highlights of Shi Shi Beach is the tide pools near Point of Arches, which are bustling with marine life and offer a window into the intertidal ecosystem. As the tide recedes, it reveals a colorful array of sea anemones, starfish, crabs, and shellfish.

• Timing: Keep track of the low tide times to maximize your experience exploring the tide pools at Point of Arches.
• Safety: Be cautious when walking on the exposed rocks as they can be extremely slick.
• Awareness: Stay alert for rogue waves by keeping an eye on wave patterns; they can appear suddenly.
• Conservation: Avoid disturbing the marine life. Do not touch or move any creatures or plants in the tide pools.

Take these safety precautions seriously!

You should use extreme caution when camping along a beach, especially the Olympic Coast. Above normal high tides in combination with wind, waves and swell can make coastal hiking extremely dangerous due to high surf and floating drift logs. Always beware of rogue waves.

You should always carry a tide chart and know how to use it. I like to screenshot the tide chart so I have it available on my phone and will also write the tides on the back of my permit. You can find the tide chart here for Shi Shi Beach.

If you’re on the fence about where to plan your next backpacking trip, let me assure you, Shi Shi Beach is a choice you won’t regret. This trail offers easy access to one of the most serene and untouched beaches in the Pacific Northwest.